Leaving the orcas behind, we headed for the mountains in search of a rather interesting creature that looks as at home in the mountains today as it did alongside mammoths during the ice age. This would be the luxuriant Musk Ox.
Confused between being a cow in a hula skirt, or a luxuriant toupee with horns, the ancient bovine is actually more closely related to a goat than an ox.
They are fascinating in design but thrilling in behaviour. To compete for territory or a mate, the males have an incredible battle that emanates many dozens of yards apart and culminates with a full speed charge leading into the ultimate Glasgow kiss of clashing heads that can be heard kilometres away. I had never thought I would witness and photograph this bizarre engagement in the wild, but luck was to be on our side.
To find these cranium crashing pugilists we walked in deep snow and ice for over 60km in four days. It was tough going with 20kg of camera gear and sundries on our backs, temperatures dropping to somewhere between -15C to -18C, and with winds comfortably 40 to 45knots complete with white-outs, eye stinging sleet and super slippery ice. In other words, perfect Musk Ox weather!
I do however I have to say that these are conditions I love … extreme and photographically complimentary for an extreme animal.
We got a brief glimpse on our first and second day with our passionate guide, Evan, who has a deeply respectful attitude to the animal and environment in which they are found.
On our third day we attempted to track the Muskus on our own and dipped out. But in the most miserably wonderful conditions on the fourth day, we hit a home run by finding two bachelor groups sparring. The experience included seeing many head crashing battles on a rim lit ridge against a dancing snow squall whipped back drop.
It was glorious! All the lousy weather and aching muscles were quickly forgotten with just Monique and I and our good Norwegian friend taking in this ancient scene for five hours that could have been taking place 50,000 years ago just as easily.
You never expect great shots after just four days, to be honest if I capture a handful of great images in an entire year in the field I am satisfied, but to experience what we did on our own, and to have the opportunity to capture these giant creatures of the ice in action was a rare privilege.
A great part of this trip was sharing it with our great Norwegian friend, Espen! Thank you Espen and Cecelie for the many memorable moments …